PHSeaFood:找海膽吃海膽


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撰文:jcx

  澎湖海洋資源豐富,雖然鄉村人口外移嚴重也沒有工業發展更別說幾乎只靠觀光客的商業。但是所謂靠山吃山、靠海吃海,當地居民就算沒有穩定的工作收入,也是可以靠著到海邊採集乾淨無污染的海洋生物為生;甚至在觀光季節時期,還能藉此增加一些額外的收入。


  小弟曾在澎湖求學四年,有幸見識到班上的澎湖同學平時的生活習慣,且接觸到觀光客在旅遊行程中體驗不到的澎湖漁村在地生活。在各項的漁村生活體驗中,印象較為深刻的就屬海膽生魚片了。澎湖近岸可供食用的海膽不少,其中公認口感最棒的是白棘三列海膽(俗稱馬糞海膽),可惜由於過度捕捉的緣故,只剩下離島才看的到數量較大的族群了。約四年前的內垵海邊還親眼看過飛盤大小的馬糞海膽,因為是跟同學在沙灘玩飛盤發現的所以捕捉時是用飛盤來裝才知道正確的大小,當時也沒多加考慮直接就放生了,只可惜沒有留下照片作為紀錄。


  由於白棘三列海膽數量的驟減,只能退而求其次食用其他種類數量較多的海膽。例如,棘冠海膽(俗稱魔鬼海膽);關於魔鬼海膽有人說能吃也有人提到不能食用,查詢海洋生物相關網頁資料後,發現也是兩極化的資料。不過在筆者自己多次食用之後身體未發現不適症狀,推論應該是可以食用的。


  採集海膽如果不準備下水的話,建議是在退潮開始後才開始進行,並在開始漲潮前離開。如果是選在初一十五大退潮這段時間,還要留意採集地點離岸邊的距離以免走的太遠發生意外。穿著方面以短褲加上T恤為主,短褲內可以穿著泳褲並且注意手機的防水,不然高高興興的下水接著而來的就是無可彌補的遺憾了。


  如果退潮的時間是在中午一定要戴上可以遮蔽後頸部位的帽子來防止曬傷,鞋子的話可以穿著老舊的運動鞋或是防滑鞋抑或涼鞋,然後再準備幾支撿垃圾用的長夾子就行了。開始時先尋找岩石地形的海域,然後趁著退潮的時間找尋海蝕洞或類似石滬之類的地點,利用長夾子(五金行有售)來撿拾海膽,這類不用敲破石縫破壞地形地貌的海膽,多半是魔鬼海膽,不過有時候運氣好也可能看到馬糞海膽就是。


  另一種躲藏在石縫中,棘刺較粗大的是梅氏長海膽,要找到可以食用的大小的很不容易,所以大家也不用費心去敲石頭挖牠了。另外,較險惡的地形地貌,在個人的經驗中,可以採集到的海膽較為多樣化且體型相對的也比較大,不過這些地方幾乎都要下水,身為觀光客的各位應該不會想去體驗才是!而且下水採集還需要留意自身的水性及水域的安全等一些浮潛、潛水才會用到的常識和裝備,且同樣是棲息在岩縫中的除了海膽外,還有裸胸鯙、石斑等雜食偏肉食性的生物,尤其是裸胸鯙如果不幸被其滿嘴的利牙咬上一口,效果就跟被鋸子劃到一樣,受傷就算了還有可能引來其他噬血的海中生物,就真的划不來了。


  時間上允許的話,建議將採集到的海膽直接在岸上料理,這樣子最能吃到海膽的新鮮口感。當場料理要先準備剪刀和湯匙(建議用鐵製品)。首先剪去外部多餘的長棘(魔鬼海膽外部的長棘有些細如髮絲 處理上需特別留意),然後在海膽的底部可以看到類似口器的部位,用剪刀往那部位插入剪出一個缺口或是直接將海膽沿著外殼剪成兩半,在動作的同時除了留意別扎傷手還要小心別讓裡面的膏狀物沾到了外面的棘刺。之後換湯匙上場,把看的到的黃色膏狀物(生殖腺或稱卵巢)一一刮下即可食用。取下的膏最好是可以立即食用,放置過久的海膽膏會變的跟布丁一樣,除了口感變差有腥味之外,食用後也有可能會使得肚子產生不適感。還有這類生鮮的吃法,對胃部功能不佳的人可能會有拉肚子的疑慮,身為觀光客的各位請自己考量自身的情況,要不海產店裡也都會有道海膽炒蛋或海膽生魚片可供點食,這算是比較方便又安全可以吃到海膽的方法。


  來到澎湖觀光的各位,如果有機會到澎湖鄉下的海邊去走走,或許有機會看到海膽殼堆成的小山,這就是專門供應餐廳海膽的民眾,在現場處裡後所留下的,想帶些殼回去當紀念的也可趁機會撿拾,省下一筆購買紀念品的花費。


  會撰寫這篇是讓大家了解,一般澎湖民眾日常的生活方式,基於安全原則跟生態保育的立場。還是不希望各位到無人看守的海域從事遊憩活動,希望各位出遊的旅客都能快樂平安的返回自己溫暖的家。


  要吃新鮮便宜的海膽還是該往七美去跟海邊船家或餐廳購買才是美味又實惠。